Kit Part Includes
- 1x Front Strut w/ Coil Spring Assembly Driver Side - 172621
- 1x Front Strut w/ Coil Spring Assembly Passenger Side - 172620
- 1x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link Passenger Side - K750616
- 1x Front Stabilizer / Sway Bar End Link Driver Side - K750617
Quantity
Fits
- FORD EXPLORER 2011 - 2012 FWD
- FORD EXPLORER 2013 FWD; Built Before 09/04/2012
Specifications
- Direct Fit
- Prepackaged for Your Convenience
- Rigorously Tested
- State of the Art Manufacturing
- Brand New Suspension Kit
- Direct replacements
- Built to strict quality control standards
- These steering and suspension parts come sealed with grease preinstalled and do not require servicing.
- Manufactured in ISO 9000 / ISO 9001 / ISO 9002 certified facilities gives the fit,
- performance Reliability and durability of OE.
NOTES
- In order to avoid overweight packaging, the combination products you buy will be transported in 2-4 packages. Please don't worry if the arrival time is different. You can always contact us. Thank you for your support and purchase.
- Please check the compatibility chart and the view Notes before purchasing the item,make sure it fits your vehicle.
2.Package Includes:
2 x Part# Front Outer Tie Rod End Link - ES80805
3.Note
Although some parts have grease fittings, other parts are factory sealed, but do not affect the fit and quality of the parts.
Please check above compatibility list to make sure it fits your vehicle.
If you want to find more about suspension kits,clicking our store.
Tie-Rod End
The tie-rod assemblies connect the center link to the steering arms, which are bolted to the front steering knuckles. In some front suspensions, the steering arms are part of the steering knuckle; in other front suspension systems, the steering arms are bolted to the knuckle. A ball socket is mounted on the inner end to each tie-rod, and a tapered stud on this socket is mounted in a center link opening. A castellated nut and cotter pin retain the tie-rods to the center link. A threaded sleeve is mounted on the outer end of each tie-rod, and a tie-rod end is threaded into the outer end of this sleeve.

Outer Tie-Rod End
Some outer tie-rod ends have a ball stud that is surrounded by an upper hardened steel bearing and a high-strength polymer lower bearing seat. The hardened steel upper bearing provides strength and durability, and the polymer lower bearing seat provides smooth rotation of the ball stud in the tie-rod end. An internal spring between the polymer lower bearing seat supplies self-adjusting action and constant tension on this seat. A seal in the upper part of the ball joint housing seals the ball stud to prevent contaminants from entering the tie-rod end. These tie-rod ends are installed on some original equipment manufacturer’s vehicles, and they are available as replacement tie-rod ends on most vehicles.

Inner Tie-Rod End
Some inner tie-rod ends contain a bolt and bushing. These tie-rod ends are threaded onto the rack. Since the rack is connected directly to the tie-rods, the rack replaces the center link in a parallelogram steering linkage.
Some inner tie-rod ends have a mirror-finished ball and a high-strength polymer bearing to ensure low torque, minimal friction, and extended life. A hardened alloy steel rod extends from the ball to the outer tie-rod end and provides maximum strength and durability.
Tie-Rod End Replacement Guideline:
If you feel a bump in the steering when driving over road bumps or curbs, this might be due to worn tie rod ends or inner tie rods. Clicking noises during sudden steering movements can also be symptoms of a defective tie rod. In order to determine the exact cause and replace the defective tie rod, the car must be elevated with a vehicle lift in order to be examined more closely.
This useful tip applies to the exchange of tie rod ends and inner tie rods, which together form the so-called tie rod.


Picture(A)
Note: Cleanliness is extremely important when working on the power steering. Incorrect work and contamination can lead to leakage and, in the worst case, to failure of the steering assistance.
1.Lift the vehicle and dismount the front axle wheels.
2.Spray the fastening nut of the tie rod end with rust remover and leave it on for a few minutes.
Picture(B)
3.Dismount the front underride guard.


Picture(C)
4.Loosen the fastening nut from the tie rod and remove it completely.
5.Remove the tie rod end from the steeringknuckle using an appropriate ball joint separator.
Picture(D)
6.Remove the clamp of the bellow on the steering gear.
7.Push the bellow towards the tie rod end.


Picture(E)
8.Unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack.
9.Clean the sealing face of the bellow at the steering gear.
Picture(F)
10.Clean the lug of the rubber contact surface of the ball joint in the steering knuckle.
Note:Always use new self-locking nuts and bolts for a reliable repair.
11.Screw the new inner tie rod into the rack and tighten it with the tightening torque that has been specified by the vehicle manufacturer.


Picture(G)
12.Mount the bellow and close the clamps with the appropriate special tool.
Note:Incorrect mounting of the bellow can lead to corrosion of the rack: the steering gear starts leaking which can lead to a failure in the steering assistance.
Picture(H)
13.Secure the ball joint in the steering knuckle and mount the nut. Please observe the tightening torque suggested by the vehicle manufacturer.
Note:During mounting, the ball stud should not turn within the ball joint. This can cause damage inside the ball joint and can lead to early failure.
Tip:Secure the ball stud against twisting with a suitable tool.

Picture(I)
14.Mount the front underride guard.
15.Mount the front wheels and tighten them with the tightening torque recommended by the vehicle manufacturer.
16.Align the wheels and adjust them if necessary. Observe the vehicle manufacturer specifications.
17.Perform a test drive.
Note:When performing the test drive, pay special attention to the handling while cornering and listen for possible noise emission.
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