Lil' Daddy Roth Rattle Bomb Pearl - Tweeka Sunrise - 12oz Aerosol

Lil' Daddy Roth Rattle Bomb - Pearl SeriesTweeka Sunrise12 Ounce Aerosol Can First there was flake in a can, now PEARL in a can. Spray 'em over a white or black base or use both bases for a classy two tone look, then throw some clear on; a simple procedure for stellar results! Tweeka Sunrise pearl, shown over a white and black base coat. The Rattle Bomb Pearl Process is simple: Roth Rattle Bomb Basecoat (either a Solid White or Solid Black base is recommended)Roth Rattle Bomb PearlClearcoat of your choiceYou can even mix them up with the rest of the Rattlebomb family for more color combinations!Here's how it works:Creating a great Roth Metal Flake paint job is super simple with our Roth Rattle Bomb System. With the Pearls, choose what variant you want, either light or dark. The color can be drastic or subtle, depending on the pearl itself. Apply your basecoat over the primed surface, then take your time laying down even layers of flake over the dry base. Next, go over that with a Kandy (if desired) and then top coat it all with some clear. That's it. No mess! No fuss! Detailed Steps1. PrepFor prepping a car for flake, treat it just like you were going to clearcoat it. Make sure all corners and edges are properly masked off. Some people start off by wet sanding at 400 grit, and end up finishing it at 600. After wet sanding, wipe the car down with wax and grease remover, and let it dry. 2. Basecoat LayerPick out a basecoat, either white or black. You are free to use the pre-existing basecoat, as long as it is even and without imperfections. Spray the basecoat, be sure to cover all the primer, and let the basecoat flash. Once the basecoat has dried, it is time for Pearl.3. Flake LayersJust like any other stage of the paint, you want to start out at the highest point and work your way down. By this point, you've already primed and basecoated the panel, and should have a plan to make your way down it.Start by fogging the whole pane. You want to have enough down to stick, but not so much where you will get runs. Once you've covered the panel, focus on any curves or harsh bodylines. Pay extra attention to peaks and the edges of your panels, especially if you want to wet sand the final clearcoat and you don t want to burn through. Once you've sprayed enough flake for the look you want, you need to wait for the clearcoat to get tacky. To see if it is time for the clearcoat, find a spot on the masking tape right next to the last part that you sprayed. Touch it with your fingertip, and slowly pull it away. If it sticks to your finger and is tacky when you pull back, it is ready for clear, otherwise wait until it gets tacky.4. Optional Kandy LayerKandy can be challenging to lay out. It has a transparent tint and must be sprayed out evenly in order for the color to come out uniform. Basecoats should be sprayed out even and smooth in order to avoid blotchy kandy jobs. Do not panel spray. Try to shoot entire sides so the kandy comes out even on the complete area.5. Final Clearcoat LayerThe clearcoat is a clear, shiny layer of paint that is applied over the basecoat color. It protects the paint from UV and is necessary to make the paint shine. The basecoat/flake/kandy contain the color and the clearcoat brings them to life.This is as straightforward as it sounds. Metal flake only pops when it is buried in clearcoat, so you need to spray an additional clearcoat over your flake. Again, start at the top, and clear your work until all of the flake is buried.After you've sprayed your final clearcoat, let it tack until it gets stringy, then pull off the tape and masking. Be careful! If you let the clearcoat dry on the tape, sometimes it will take off chunks of paint with it when you finally pull it off. So save yourself the headache and unmask it when the clearcoat is still relatively sticky. CautionFor best results, Roth Rattle Bomb aerosol cans must be kept warm. If you are in a cold weather area, be sure to warm up the can before use by placing it in a sink with warm water. Cold cans will cause blushing with a bad milky effect to the paint due to separation.

Lil' Daddy Roth Rattle Bomb - Pearl Series
Tweeka Sunrise
12 Ounce Aerosol Can

First there was flake in a can, now PEARL in a can. Spray 'em over a white or black base or use both bases for a classy two tone look, then throw some clear on; a simple procedure for stellar results!

Tweeka Sunrise pearl, shown over a white and black base coat.

The Rattle Bomb Pearl Process is simple:

Roth Rattle Bomb Basecoat (either a Solid White or Solid Black base is recommended)
Roth Rattle Bomb Pearl
Clearcoat of your choice

You can even mix them up with the rest of the Rattlebomb family for more color combinations!

Here's how it works:

Creating a great Roth Metal Flake paint job is super simple with our Roth Rattle Bomb System. With the Pearls, choose what variant you want, either light or dark. The color can be drastic or subtle, depending on the pearl itself. Apply your basecoat over the primed surface, then take your time laying down even layers of flake over the dry base. Next, go over that with a Kandy (if desired) and then top coat it all with some clear. That's it. No mess! No fuss!

Detailed Steps

1. Prep

For prepping a car for flake, treat it just like you were going to clearcoat it. Make sure all corners and edges are properly masked off. Some people start off by wet sanding at 400 grit, and end up finishing it at 600. After wet sanding, wipe the car down with wax and grease remover, and let it dry.

2. Basecoat Layer

Pick out a basecoat, either white or black. You are free to use the pre-existing basecoat, as long as it is even and without imperfections. Spray the basecoat, be sure to cover all the primer, and let the basecoat flash. Once the basecoat has dried, it is time for Pearl.

3. Flake Layers

Just like any other stage of the paint, you want to start out at the highest point and work your way down. By this point, you've already primed and basecoated the panel, and should have a plan to make your way down it.

Start by fogging the whole pane. You want to have enough down to stick, but not so much where you will get runs. Once you've covered the panel, focus on any curves or harsh bodylines. Pay extra attention to peaks and the edges of your panels, especially if you want to wet sand the final clearcoat and you don t want to burn through.

Once you've sprayed enough flake for the look you want, you need to wait for the clearcoat to get tacky. To see if it is time for the clearcoat, find a spot on the masking tape right next to the last part that you sprayed. Touch it with your fingertip, and slowly pull it away. If it sticks to your finger and is tacky when you pull back, it is ready for clear, otherwise wait until it gets tacky.

4. Optional Kandy Layer

Kandy can be challenging to lay out. It has a transparent tint and must be sprayed out evenly in order for the color to come out uniform. Basecoats should be sprayed out even and smooth in order to avoid blotchy kandy jobs. Do not panel spray. Try to shoot entire sides so the kandy comes out even on the complete area.

5. Final Clearcoat Layer

The clearcoat is a clear, shiny layer of paint that is applied over the basecoat color. It protects the paint from UV and is necessary to make the paint shine. The basecoat/flake/kandy contain the color and the clearcoat brings them to life.

This is as straightforward as it sounds. Metal flake only pops when it is buried in clearcoat, so you need to spray an additional clearcoat over your flake. Again, start at the top, and clear your work until all of the flake is buried.

After you've sprayed your final clearcoat, let it tack until it gets stringy, then pull off the tape and masking. Be careful! If you let the clearcoat dry on the tape, sometimes it will take off chunks of paint with it when you finally pull it off. So save yourself the headache and unmask it when the clearcoat is still relatively sticky.

Caution

For best results, Roth Rattle Bomb aerosol cans must be kept warm. If you are in a cold weather area, be sure to warm up the can before use by placing it in a sink with warm water. Cold cans will cause blushing with a bad milky effect to the paint due to separation.

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